Bologna's cathedral, and the tower-within-a-tower almost nobody climbs
A 10th-century tower inside a 13th โข la Nonna, the great bell โข red roofs to San Petronio and the Due Torri
Climb the Campanile Get Early AccessBologna's cathedral, a block off Piazza Maggiore
The nave open daily, no ticket
A small donation on climb days, crypt included
Usually weekends, opened by volunteers
Almost everyone in Bologna is heading somewhere else when they pass San Pietro. The crowds pour down Via dell'Indipendenza toward Piazza Maggiore, and the city's actual cathedral, the seat of its archbishop, slips by on the left barely noticed. Step inside and it is calm, free, and grander than its plain front suggests, rebuilt in the 1740s with a soaring nave and a quiet crypt below. But the real reason to stop is the bell tower beside it, one of the best-kept secrets in a city full of towers. On the days it opens you can climb it, and most visitors never know it is there.
First, the thing that confuses everyone. San Pietro is not San Petronio. San Pietro is the cathedral, the Duomo, standing a block north of Piazza Maggiore on Via dell'Indipendenza. San Petronio is the enormous basilica with the half-finished brick front that fills one side of the piazza itself. Two different churches, two different saints, a five-minute walk apart. It is San Pietro, the cathedral, whose campanile you climb, and from the top you can look back and see San Petronio's great bulk across the rooftops, which is the easiest way to keep the two straight in your head.
The campanile is stranger than it looks. What you see from the street is a square 13th-century tower about 70 metres tall, but it was built straight over an older one, and the earlier 10th-century tower still stands sealed inside it. Climb up and you meet the join: partway through the ascent the round brick shaft of the older tower rises through the middle of the newer one, a tower wearing a tower. The cathedral's own sign puts it plainly, two bell towers, one inside the other. It is the kind of detail that turns a staircase into a discovery.
At the top hang some of the most famous bells in Bologna. The largest, cast in 1594 and weighing over three tons, is known affectionately as la Nonna, the grandmother; her clapper alone weighs as much as a grown man. Bologna rings its bells in a rare full-circle style, swinging them a complete 360 degrees, a demanding tradition kept alive by the Unione Campanari Bolognesi. These were the bells that in 1933 became the first in the world broadcast live by radio, a moment a marble tablet in the tower still records. Time your climb for a feast day and you may hear la Nonna turn.
The way up winds through warm brick and past the strangest thing in the building: the older 10th-century tower, sealed whole inside the one you are climbing.




At the top hang some of the most famous bells in Bologna, rung full-circle in a tradition centuries old, with the great grandmother bell at their heart.




Then the reason to climb at all: the whole terracotta city opening out to San Petronio and Piazza Maggiore, Torre Azzoguidi close at hand, the leaning Garisenda on the skyline, and the far hill of San Luca.





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