A city that takes its gelato seriously, and the one sorbetteria we always come back to
Real gelato, not the fluffy stuff | La Sorbetteria Castiglione, our favourite | how to spot the good places
Find the Best Gelato Get Early AccessOur pick, toward Santo Stefano
A cone or cup costs little
Best after the passeggiata, into the evening
A cup lets you pair two or three flavours
You are in the right part of the world for this. Emilia-Romagna is gelato heartland: the machines that make gelato for half of Italy are built just outside the city, and the industry even runs its Gelato University near Bologna. In town that heritage shows up as a sorbetteria on what feels like every other corner, most of them churning their gelato fresh in the back each morning. It means the bar is high and the fluffy, over-sweet tourist stuff has nowhere to hide. A little know-how, and you eat very well.
If we could send you to one place it would be La Sorbetteria Castiglione, on Via Castiglione toward Santo Stefano. Family-run since 1994, it is the gelato we measure the others against. The classics are flawless, a dull-green pistachio and a fior di panna that tastes of pure sweet cream, but the shop is loved for its own silky house creams, listed on the board under names of their own like Dolce Emma and Crema Michelangelo. There is usually a queue of locals, which is the surest sign of all. Come hungry and try more than one.
Telling great gelato from the tourist trap is easy once you know the tells. Real gelato sits in covered tubs or in modest, level mounds, never piled into towering swirled peaks held up with stabilisers. The colours are muted and natural: pistachio is a dull olive, banana is pale grey, mint is white, not neon anything. The fruit flavours follow the season. Look for produzione propria, made on the premises. If it is bright, fluffy and mounded to the ceiling, walk on; the good stuff is a few doors down.
You are never far from a good scoop in Bologna, so it is worth wandering. Grom, the artisan chain born in Turin, is a dependable fallback with honest ingredients when you want to be sure. Beyond that the city is full of neighbourhood cremerie with their own devoted followings, and half the fun is tasting your way between them. The rule stays the same wherever you go: follow the muted colours and the local queue.





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